Carrot

Carrot (Daucus carota) is a cool-season root vegetable in the carrot family, native to central Asia and Afghanistan and closely related to parsley, fennel and dill. It’s naturally a biennial that flowers in its second year, but it’s grown as an annual and harvested in the first season. Carrots are straightforward to grow from seed, take up little space and can be grown in containers.

Varieties differ in root shape. Long Imperator types, cone-shaped Danvers, cylindrical Nantes, broad-shouldered Chantenay, and small or round types are all available; the short and round ones suit heavy clay soil and containers. Besides orange, there are purple, white and yellow carrots.

Sow directly outdoors. Sow carrots where they’ll grow, because transplanting damages the young taproots and leads to forked roots. They’re best sown in spring and fall, since they don’t grow well in hot weather. Sow about 2–3 weeks before your last spring frost, once the soil has reached at least 45 °F (7 °C). For a fall crop, sow 10–12 weeks before the first fall frost.

How to sow. Cover the seed with ¼–½ inch (6–13 mm) of soil. Seeds germinate best in soil at 55–65 °F (13–18 °C) and are slow to come up, taking one to three weeks. Keep the surface moist and don’t let it form a crust before the seedlings emerge. On soil that crusts, cover the seed with ⅛ inch (3 mm) of vermiculite, potting soil or sawdust instead of garden soil. A few radish seeds sown in the same row will mark it while the carrots germinate.

Thinning. Thin seedlings to about 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm) apart. Cut unwanted seedlings rather than pulling them, so you don’t disturb the roots of the ones you keep.

Site and soil. Choose full sun (partial shade is tolerated) and a moist, sandy loam that’s neutral to slightly acidic. Stones, clods and heavy clay make roots fork or grow misshapen; in such soil, grow short-rooted types. Aim for a pH of 6.0–6.5. Go easy on nitrogen, which pushes leaf growth at the expense of the roots.

Pots. Carrots grow well in containers. Gardening experts suggest at least 2 quarts (about 2 L) of compost and 10 inches (25 cm) of depth. Small, round varieties suit most pots, while long-rooted types need deep ones.

Watering. Even moisture matters most: an uneven supply can leave roots cracked, coarse and strong-flavored. In dry weather, water lightly every day until plants are established, then ease off near harvest, since too much moisture can crack the roots. Carrots in the ground are fairly drought resistant and suggests a good soak every two weeks in long dry spells; carrots in containers dry out faster and need regular watering.

Green shoulders. If the tops of the roots push above the soil, cover them with soil to stop them turning green.

Heat. Carrots grow best at average temperatures of 60–65 °F (16–18 °C). Roots left in the ground in hot weather near maturity can turn strong-flavored and fibrous, and hot soil gives them poor color.

Weeds. Carrots compete poorly with weeds, especially early on. Hoe between rows but weed by hand near the plants so you don’t damage the tops of the roots.

The most damaging pest is the carrot fly (carrot rust fly), whose larvae tunnel into the roots and leave holes that can rot. Research found that covering the crop completely with insect-proof mesh is the most effective protection, and rotating where you grow carrots helps too. Avoid brushing the leaves when weeding, because the smell attracts the flies. Slugs and snails can eat seedlings.

Six-spotted leafhoppers spread a disease called carrot yellows, which causes several tops on one root, yellowing leaves and lots of hairy roots. Alternaria blight spots the leaves, and root-knot nematodes can damage the roots. Forked roots usually mean the main root was damaged, often by stony or heavy soil or by carrot fly.

Pull carrots once they reach a usable size, roughly when the top of the root starts to rise out of the soil. Baby carrots can be ready in four to six weeks, while full-size carrots usually take three months or more. Loosen the soil with a garden fork before lifting, especially in heavy soil, so the roots don’t snap.

In late fall you can leave carrots in the ground and dig them as needed through winter: remove the leaves and cover the row with straw or cardboard against frost. If your soil gets waterlogged in winter, lift and store them instead.

Cut off the leafy tops right after harvest to keep the roots from losing moisture. Stored at about 33 °F (1 °C) with high humidity, topped carrots keep for four to six months. Don’t store them with apples or pears, whose gases can make the roots bitter.

Pet poison experts list garden carrot as non-toxic to cats and dogs, though it notes that the plant contains psoralens, which can irritate skin. Besides the familiar root, the leaves, flowers and seeds are edible.